Minnesota Fishing Questions Answered, Fishing Product Reviews and Fishing Tips From Pro Fishing Guide Jeff Sundin

Crappie on Lake Winnibigoshish? 3-10-08

    Q) Jeff, I've fished Winnie for Perch through the ice for many years.  In that time I've never caught a Crappie or even seen one caught.  I heard from a co-worker that some Crappie are caught on Winnie through the ice.  He conveniently doesn't have any details.  What do you know about Crappie on Winnie through the ice?  And I'm talking Winnie not Cut Foot.  Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Branden

    A)  Before I give you a long flowery answer, please understand that I don't consider myself an "expert" on fishing Crappies or Bluegills on Lake Winnie. We do catch some and I'm always happy when we do.
     Most folks agree that there are a few isolated schools of Crappie on Winnie. The problem is that there aren't enough large schools of fish to make them reliable to target. Often, people fishing in Third River, Tamarack Bay or Lake Harry will stumble into a school. Sometimes the fish stay in an area for a few days, but rarely are there enough fish to withstand a lot of pressure.
As long as the Walleye and Perch population stays high, Crappie will probably never blossom into a high percentage target, but it is really fun when you do stumble into a school and it does happen from time to time.
    These few clues are about all I really have to go on. If you find them, they're worth catching. But more often than not, I can do much better by fishing the smaller lakes in the area which produce plenty of numbers and good average size fish. Good Luck, Jeff

16 Foot Lund Alaskan vs. 16 Foot Lund Classic 2-19-08

    Q) By way of introduction, my name is Chuck of southeastern Pennsylvania. I’m currently exploring the purchase of a Lund aluminum boat, specifically the Classic 1625 SS (665 lbs) or the Alaskan 1600 SS (915 lbs). The boat will be mainly used in local freshwater lakes of approximately 1500 acres. My main concern, and question to you and your Website readers, is regarding the weight of the boat, horsepower and performance. The majority of lakes in Pennsylvania are horsepower restricted, maximum of 20hp. While I’m not necessarily concerned with maximum performance, given the relatively small size of the lakes I’ll be fishing, the weight of the Lund with the IPS hull is making my choice somewhat difficult. I like the Alaskan size, layout and features compared to the Classic but the extra 200+ lbs is something to consider. Do you or your readers have any experience in this area? Can you comment on the performance I can expect given the hp restriction and weights of the two boats? A friend of mine owns a 1990’s model Alaskan SSV18 (~600lbs), standard V-hull without the IPS, equipped with a 15hp 2-stroke engine. The performance of this rig, while not optimal, would be good for my purposes. Are their any comparisons I can make here? I’ve looked at some Performance Bulletins from Mercury, Honda and Yamaha; however, none seem to match the configurations I am considering. As a Lund owner I would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks, Chuck.

    A) Chuck, It's been quite some time since I've run a rig with less than 90 HP, so I'm definitely not the final authority on this subject.
    I'm all for protecting our resources, but it sounds like the State of Pennsylvania has put you in a difficult position. In my opinion, you could do better to minimize the negative impact of boating on a lake by allowing boats to be "correctly powered" for better performance. In other words, if I lived on a lake, I'd rather see boats operating efficiently, than to see underpowered rigs plowing water, causing large wakes and burning extra gas. With today's improved engines, a 40 HP limit would likely serve the same purpose environmentally and still give boaters a few more realistic options. I can think of a bunch of really nice fishing rigs that could be paired up with engines in the 25 to 40 HP range.
    That said, If I had to choose between the two boats, I think the Classic 1625 gets the nod this time. Honestly, a 1500 acre lake is going to be manageable with either rig and even if I had to cover the whole lake at trolling speed, I could still cover a lot of ground in a typical fishing day. But that classic is a nice rig and you can't ignore that weight difference. I think you'll do great with the Classic. Here's a little trick I learned a few years ago; Check into pontoon boat props for your outboard engine. These are "anti-cavitation" props built for applications where the prop needs to get "good traction" and while you will lose some top end speed, they really do help you get up on plane better and improve the responsiveness of your rig. For me, a boat that handles properly is a lot more fun to use than one that only goes fast.
    Now that you know my personal preference, maybe some of the folks reading this will add their two cents worth by clicking here. Good Luck, Jeff

G. Loomis SR842-2 Spinning Rods, Matching Reels 2-5-08

Q) Hello. I have a Loomis Sr842-2 GL3 spinning rod and I was wondering what spinning reel do you recommend for this rod? All I keep seeing when I search is the GLX (version). I just thought I would let you know. Thanks, John

A) I have several of the SR842-2 GLX rods. In my opinion, this is the best light rod I've ever touched. I use them primarily for Walleye and Crappie fishing with light jigs in the 1/32 ounce to 1/18 ounce range.
I've used the SR 842-2 IMX version as well, but really prefer the faster recovery time of the GLX. I've not used the GL3, but I guess that it's probably somewhat "whipier" than either the IMX or GLX versions and just a touch heavier.
    Because I seldom use line heavier than 4 pound test with these rods, I generally match these rods with a 1500 series or sometimes even a 1000 series reel. With the GL3, the 1500 series might feel better, but you'll have to take the rod into the store and try out a couple. Hands on testing is the best way.
    Shimano, Daiwa and Garcia all have some nice lightweight reels in this size range. I went through a phase where I bought quite a few "high end" reels and eventually came to the realization that my money was better spent on getting the best rod, then matching that with a reel of decent quality, but not necessarily "top of the line". Last year I bought some moderately priced Shimano Cienna 1000 series reels and I had good luck with those. I prefer a front drag on mine, you may choose a rear drag. As long as they have a good drag and feel smooth, you'll be okay. If you want to go into a higher end reel, look at the Stradic FI.
I hope this helps, good luck, Jeff
    Note: If you check the G. Loomis website under trout rods, they do list the GL3 version right along with the others. Dealers may choose not to stock that model, but they can certainly order it for you. Use this link to view the G. Loomis Product Page

A) Actually, It is an 80 pound thrust and it is the Vector 3X Tiller model. When you have good batteries, you can run it hard all day long without a problem. When the batteries start getting tired, lets say 190 to 250 trips on them, then I can use them up in a day. For me, I try to run the trolling motor instead of the outboard, so I have it on a lot. For a typical angler, you may even go three or four days on a charge, but if at all possible, I'd recommend re-charging every time you use the rig and you'll get longer battery life.
The dealers seldom keep the 20 foot Alaskans "on-hand", but your first call should be to Dave Hernesman at Ray's Sport & Marine in Grand Rapids 218-326-0353 or email him at rays@raysmarine.com

A) Yes I run the 24 volt and I've been using the MinnKota 80 pound Vector 3X models and they are a perfect match for this rig. Beginning with the 2007 models, there is a built in battery compartment just below the front deck under the cockpit floor. There's room in there for two group 27 batteries so the 24 volt is no problem. If you want to go 36 volt, (you really don't need to) you could add another battery in one of the storage compartments in the front deck. This isn't that heavy a boat though and typically the 24 volts system will do a great job.

I always install MinnKota's three bank on board charger and I've never had a failure. I will never be without one.

Q) Hello Jeff, I was looking at your boat, and setup. The Alaskan looks like a very nice setup, but with a 115hp tiller??? I guess that sounds like a lot, how does it handle? Have you had any troubles with the mercury motor? Looking for your insight since you probably run the boat every day in the summer. Thanks and good fishing, Matthew

    A) Matthew, This was my first year with a Mercury Outboard since the late seventies. Most folks know by now that Mercury Marine's parent company, Brunswick Corporation acquired Lund Boats a couple of seasons ago. To make a long story short, this opened up an opportunity for me to switch over to the Merc.
From the beginning, I've had a great experience with the outboard and with the company itself. They are very well organized and the products are delivered really fast.
    Another change resulting from Brunswick's acquisition was the re-rating of the Alaskan 2000 Tiller Boats. Previously rated for a 90 HP Tiller Engine, the Alaskan has been upgraded to a bit larger boat with a few bells and whistles and a new rating up to 115 HP.
    Not knowing what to expect, I decided to spend my first season with the 115 HP four stroke and this turned out to be an excellent engine for me. It starts great, sounds great and looks great to boot. A lot of folks that fished with me last summer complemented the engine on it's quietness. On this boat, this engine has all the get up and go I could ever ask for and it was zipping me along at just shy of 40 MPH. I switched to a lower pitch prop, 16 pitch aluminum "Black Max" to get a little slower trolling speed and that dropped my top end down to around 37 MPH.
    At the time I ordered it, Mercury's new "power steering" tiller handle wasn't yet available, so I went with the conventional tiller steering control. That's the tensioning system with a swing arm that slides through an adjustable plastic sleeve. I really didn't have much problem controlling the engine because it had plenty of power to get me up on plane even at low speeds. Tiller engines are easy to control when you're boat is on plane and you have the engine trimmed up to it's "sweet spot". They're only tough to control when you're plowing water, in other words you're a lot more likely to have trouble with an underpowered boat or when you don't have the correct prop installed.
    This year the new power steering tiller is available and I will certainly have it installed on this year's rig. From what I've seen so far, these power units take virtually all of the work out of steering a tiller engine. As soon as I hit the water this spring I'll be sure to post an updated review.
    Trolling speed with the big four stroke is acceptable, especially when you use a good drift sock. For me, if the water is calm, I do all of my best work with the electric motor and tend not to run the engine until there's a "Walleye Chop". With a few waves slapping into my Wave Wackers, it trolls down just great.

  I hope that helps, Good Luck - Jeff

Q) > Jeff, I am looking at purchasing a new 20 ft Alaskan. I cannot find pictures of this boat anywhere and dealers don't keep them in stock for me to see. I understand your boat is sold. Can you send me more pictures of it so I can get a better feel for the boat?

A couple other questions: Is the livewell big enough? How does it handle rough water? How fast with a 115hp? Thanks a bunch, Matt.

    A) Matt, this was my 4th Alaskan and they have all been good boats for me. I fish large lakes like Leech, Rainy, Red and Lake of the Woods. These boats have taken everything that any of them can dish out.
Top speed with the 4 stroke 115 is really dependent on the prop you choose. If all you want to do is go fast, you can put on a higher pitch prop and your speed will be well over 40 MPH. In my case, I want to troll down, so I run the lowest pitch prop they offer which is a 17 pitch, 3 blade aluminum prop. My top speed with a light/dry load is about 38, heavy/wet loads I get about 36 MPH.
    The livewell (for me) is where I keep the bait. I use an ice chest for the fish because that keeps them delightfully fresh in warm weather. If I were to choose to use the livewell for fish instead of bait, I believe it's plenty big enough for your average fisherman. It is not a "tournament" size livewell, but on one occasion where we need to keep fish alive for a photo session, I had a 15 pound Pike and a 10 pound Walleye both in there at the same time and we kept them alive easily. So if you don't over-do it, it will be more than adequate. Here are a few pictures I have on hand. Click to enlarge them.

A) The 8400 is a great rod. I use that rod for live bait rigging in deeper water where heavier sinker weights are needed and for trolling crankbaits. If this is the type of fishing you like, keep it.
    If you prefer to fish Walleyes in shallow water using lighter sinkers and jigs, then that rod might be a bit heavy for day to day fishing. In that case, I think the ULTIMATE light line/light lure rod in the entire G.Loomis lineup is the SR 842-2 GLX.
    Another thought with regard to versatility; The SJR 720 IMX is probably about as good a choice as you'll find for an all around rod that you can use for multiple applications.
    I hope this helps. If you want more specific selections, let me know more about your fishing style and the baits you most often use. - Good luck, Jeff

A) David, You're going to see a lot of choices out there for line. I've been using the Berkley Fireline on my musky gear. The line weight you need is going to depend a lot on the rods you're using, but generally, the 50 pound test should be okay for most applications. Here's a link to an article I wrote that might be of interest to you.
http://www.jeffsundin.com/article_musky_mystery_part-one.htm - Good luck! Jeff

A) Mike, The Merc is a 115 HP 4 Stroke. I am anticipating the price of the boat to be around $17,900.00 but I don't have that locked in just yet. For trolling shad raps and other crank baits I like a casting rod with a line counting reel. I use all Loomis Rods and the models that work well with crankbaits are CR 842 IMX, PR 8400 IMX, CR 843 IMX (for larger baits). There are a lot of good models for jigging and live bait rigging. When I can't decide on a specific rod for a specific job, I go with the spinning rod SJR 720 IMX. This is a six foot rod that will perform most of the work an average fisherman can throw at it. The 1500 Series Reel should match up well with that rod. Good luck! Jeff

A) Brad, I'm not super familiar with those reels but if their numbering system is uniform throughout all of the models, the 1500 should be good. In the store, you can tell easily which one will be best by installing it on the rod and then using only your index finger, balance the rod just ahead of the reel seat on the handle. If the rod falls backward your reel is too heavy, if the tip falls toward the ground the reel is too light. An ideal combination should balance on your fingertip and feel comfortable to hold. When it's balanced correctly, you can fish all day long without getting a sore or tired arm. Good luck! Jeff

A) Thanks Tim, Chances are that it won't be more than a couple of hundred bucks to get the guiding coverage under your homeowners policy if you're not guiding full time. Most insurance companies will let you add the coverage under your homeowners and they usually have a rule that equates the percentage of your income from guiding to determine whether or not you are eligible.
    If you earn more than 50% of your income from guiding/fishing, you'll probably need to cover yourself with a commercial inland marine policy. I have mine through Charter Lakes Insurance at the Dwight Swanstrom Agency in Duluth, Minnesota. If you want that contact information, let me know.
    Be sure that your insurance agent knows that you're guiding and let them tell you what you need. Now days if you don't disclose it, don't be surprised if they deny a claim based on the fact that you don't have the correct rider on your policy. Chances are that it won't be a big deal to get coverage under your homeowners.

Walleye Fishing on Pokegama (Grand Rapids) 10-6-06

    Q) Any tips on Pokegama walleyes this time of year? Lyle

    A) It sounds like Pokegama is somewhat sluggish right now. But you should be able to catch at least some fish by working the weed edges and deeper breaklines from 12 down to about 30 feet. I am particularly fond of slow back trolling the drop off while I have one angler casting a light jig tipped with either a night crawler or shiner minnow into the shallow weeds and the second angler using a live bait rig on the deeper edges. I vary the bait on the lindy rig according to which type of fish I encounter along the way. Good choices are night crawlers, large rainbow chubs or redtails. I don't use shiners on the live bait rigs because they're not real hardy and don't keep swimming.
    There are also some Crappies and Bluegills that you can find by watching your electronics as you slowly move along outside the deep weeds and into open water near the drop off edges. Read this article for a couple of tips on how to go about it. http://www.jeffsundin.com/Article,%20Crappies%20Following%20Fall%20Movements.htm
    I hope any of this does you some good and I'll look forward to hearing from you this winter. - Good luck, Jeff

    Tim, Whenever I write a report it's intended to outline trends in the area. I try several lakes each week and I may be referring to Winnie, Cass, Leech and many more. "Deep weedline" is a relative term and generally should be taken as a clue to fish the outside edge of the weedline. As you already know, Winnibigosh has weeds out to maybe 10 feet at the deepest except in certain isolated bays. So on that lake your fishing will be centered around those depths that you mentioned 6 to 10 feet is a good rule of thumb.
    The recent reports about fish being "super shallow" are too old to be reliable now, however there are still a lot of Perch and some Walleyes on the rocks in water of 5 to six feet . The rock bite is usually dependant on getting a good wind for at least several hours to get the fish moving and up onto the rocks. You already know where some of those good spots are and they will work now if the wind is right.
    Your regular stomping grounds should provide you with some good opportunities, but keep Cutfoot Sioux in mind as a backup plan. There are getting to be more fish in there every day and it will soon be the only place you really "need" to go.
     I have been over to Cass Lake several times this fall and while Cass has been good, it has not been as good as Lake Winnie (in my opinion). If you are a good deep breakline fisherman, you'll find some good fish in 18 to 30 feet of water and a few spots where there are smaller fish between 30 and 50 feet of water.
    In either case, jig and minnow should get you into some action. Hope that helps, Jeff

Q) I have been fishing in a place called pretty boy dam in Parkton, Maryland, and I have some luck with small mouth bass (maybe 1 or 2 if I’m lucky), but I have seen the fish in this lake jump out about a foot off the lake and they are big but I throw live bait and different jigs but no luck on the big ones I think I am doing something wrong what’s your suggestion on this. And every time I go fishing their, the weather is the same over cast, Walter type is cloudy and green. Thank you for any suggestions you have.

-Christopher

    A) Christopher, If there a lot of Smallmouth in that lake, you should be able to find them schooled in small groups in deeper water at this time of year. Unlike Largemouth, the Smallies are a lot more prone to eat meat so your best bet for getting some action is to try and locate areas with rocks along the drop off. Points, sunken islands (reefs) or even just rocky areas on straight breakline edges in 16 to 30 feet of water are locations that I try to find here in Minnesota. Live bait rigs tipped with Leeches or large minnows generally gets me into some action.
    About the jumping fish, check with your fish and game department about getting a lake survey or fish population assessment . Most often when I see fish jumping out of the water as you describe, it is a White Sucker. Plentiful around here, they are not usually caught on the same lures we use for other game fish. I can't say for sure that this is what you're seeing, but you could have a similar species driving you fish crazy out there. There is an old saying around here "Jumping Fish Don't Bite" and I'd focus my attention on the ones you can't see.
    Please take my advice about getting in touch with folks who can give you a population assessment. It's a lot easier to fine tune your approach when you know exactly what you're looking for. - Good Luck! Jeff

Q) Hi Jeff, well I'm back again to ask you a couple more questions re my 20' Lund Alaskan single side console:
    From previous correspondence it's my impression you backtroll using an electric trolling motor (I'm also under the impression your Alaskan is a "tiller" model). On which side of the transom is your trolling motor mounted, port or starboard?
    My Alaskan came with two pedestal bases installed behind the drivers seat, each located very close to the side of the boat and not in a good position to backtroll; sitting in either of these two seats puts you either too far away, or too close to the side of the boat to backtroll, depending on which side you're attempting to fish from. I prefer to fish over the port side of the boat and operate the trolling motor with my left hand. I intend to install another pedestal base somewhere back near the transom, more in the center of the boat, kind of in-between the two rear pedestal bases that came with the Alaskan (I hope I'm not making this too confusing), either on top of the lid of the floor compartment in front of the motor that opens open for storage, on perhaps directly in front of that storage lid, on the panel that is positioned over the built in gas tank. So, my second question is: In your boat, where is the seat positioned that you sit in when you backtroll?
    You've always been very prompt in replying to my E-mails re my Alaskan, and I very much appreciate it. Sometimes I think I'm pushing my luck a bit in continuing to ask questions of you, but I know you've had several Alaskans, so who better to ask, huh?
    I'll look forward to your reply when it's convenient for you. Thanks again, Dennis Gregory

A) Dennis, I have my MinnKota Vector 3X mounted on the starboard side. It's very handy for me there. The seat pedestal is mounted just to the starboard side of that gas tank/storage door panel you mentioned and it is centered at the hinge of that storage door.
    If you want to go closer to the center, I'd suggest using one of the "Half Pedestal Bases" (has one flat side) installed on the center panel just ahead of that hinge. You have to remove that center panel first to be sure that you have the correct clearances between the floor and gas tank. I would suggest mounting the base with stainless screws and lock nuts instead of using wood screws. Wood screws will eventually loosen and force you to relocate the base.
    That sounds like a job, but you can remove that panel in just a few minutes. A good hole saw to cut out a spot for your new bases(s) is the only special tool you'll need.
    Have fun getting it dialed in. Stay in touch, Jeff

A) Deer Lake, Pokegama, Trout Lake, Turtle and others are deep, cool lakes. Walleye fishing is not generally considered great during the day, but at least they're not shut down.
We had good news yesterday already, a cool windy day without sunshine. The Walleyes on Lake Winnie got really active while the wind blew. For the next week or two, wind and slowly falling temperatures will be the key to better fishing.

A) Bob, I love to fish Muskies, but I am no expert on fly rod methods. Click on this link to take you to Larry Dahlberg who is a Musky/Fly Rod expert. There's a forum where you can ask questions. I hope this helps, good luck.

http://www.huntforbigfish.com/cgi-bin/mb/view.pl

Q) Hi, I’m looking at getting either the SR842-2 GLX or the DSR820S GLX. I already have the IMX version of the SR842-2 as well as the non GLX version of the DSR820S which I was told is closer to an IMX blank. I use the rod primarily with either 4 pound Fireline or 6 pound Fireline for casting either small crankbaits like Ecogear SX40Fs or small jigheads (1/32 – 1/6 oz ). Which would be better suited to my preferred use? - Regards, Chung

20 Foot Alaskan with Mercury Opti-Max 2-17-6

Q) Just would kinda' like to get your opinion on a couple of things. I've corresponded with you in the past: I'm buying a new, '06, Lund 20' Alaskan, single console. You've written about this boat several times, so I know you're a fan of this model. After exchanging a couple E-mails with you, it was my intention to put a 115 hp Evinrude E-tech on this boat, however (and you probably know this), I've found it is about impossible to buy a Lund boat and Evinrude motor from the same dealership. The couple of Lund dealers in my area that did carry the Evinrude line, now tell me they're not going to carry the Evinrudes any more. So now, I've opted for a 115 hp Mercury OptiMax; looks like my only choice! So, I'd like to get your thoughts on this outfit - 20' Alaskan with 115 Optimax. Also, the dealer has recommended a 24 volt MinnKota 80# Power Drive troll motor. Before talking with the dealer, I had kinda' thought I'd go with the MinnKota Maxuum troll motor, because that seems to be the one I see on most bigger boats. Have you had any experience with the MinnKota Power drives and/or the Maxuum.
Thanks, I'll look forward to hearing your opinion...........Dennis, Peoria, Illinois

A) Dennis, That's going to be a peppy rig. I get enough speed and lift out my 90 to satisfy every desire. The Opti Max is going to be fine, but if you really want the E-Tech, Ray's Marine in Grand Rapids, Minnesota can get you set up and they sell out of state all the time. I have used the 74 pound Maxxum on the last five boats and always had plenty of power. This year I have to get a new one but the 74 lb is gone and there is either a 70 or an 80 lb version. This is a coin toss because either of them will be plenty of power. In my world, I'll probably go with the 80 lb. because if I can leave my outboard shut off a couple of extra days, the gas savings will be worth the extra few bucks for the larger electric. Good Luck, - Jeff

Q) Hi Jeff.Your website says to "fish vertically" for crappies. What does that mean? I've been fishing crappies with a slip bobber and minnow/jig combo and did really well until this year. This year, I'm not doing so well - so I'm needing to refine my technique.
Cheri M. Bialke

A) Cheri, Vertically means to hover over the fish and drop your jig straight down below the boat. It's almost the same as slip bobber fishing except the point is to keep the boat and therefore the jigs directly in front of the fish at all times. With a slip bobber you can never be 100 percent sure that it is where the fish are and you can't make instant visual adjustments when the schools move up or down in the water. The real secret is to be watching your electronics at all times and keeping the boat over the the schools of roaming Crappies. Slip bobbers are a better option in locations where the fish are relatively stable and unlikely to move. Places like small rock piles, brush or isolated weeds are perfect for slip bobbers. Crappies that roam in open water need to be pursued a little more aggressively so the vertical approach is perfect for these moving schools.
     I'm not sure where you fish, but there are times when the Crappies in a given lake become over pressured and harder to find. It might be time to experiment on some new lakes where there has been less pressure recently. Right now, should be a good time to do this.

Good Luck!

Q) I need to repower my 30 foot Gemini cat with 40 horse tohatso two cycle outboard. How do you feel about e-tech vs. 4 stroke. weight is a factor.

Thank you Skip

A) I've run the 2 Stroke E-Tech and the Johnson 4 stroke and between the two engines the Johnson 4 stroke was sweet starting, smooth running and really quiet. The 2 stroke E-Tech is sweet starting, really quiet but not quite as smooth running (mine is a three cylinder). I think me E-Tech has a bit more power that is to say I get up on plane easier and I can run the boat up on the trailer easier etc.....I don't notice any particular advantage in either direction when it comes to economy of either engine. The two stroke will be a lighter engine and if I'm not mistaken, Evinrude is still including a seven year warranty on the E-techs. That's an awful big advantage to you if the program is still being offered.
Both engines have been reliable and efficient and I'd happily run either one next year. For me, the E-tech has a slight edge because of the extra power. I sometimes have a heavy load in my boat and it does get me up easier when I'm fully loaded.
If you have more specific questions, give me a shout and I can go into it a little deeper with you.
Good luck, Jeff

Q) HI,
saw your ad selling your Alaskan and wondered how you liked it. I am thinking of buying a 1996 20' and don't know much about it. It has a 75 hp Merc and a 9.9 kicker. It looks pretty shallow on the sides and I don't want to get into any trouble on the great lakes.

For the most part, I'll be fishing with my 4 year old son on local lakes, but I do take the occasional trips to Lake Erie to go walleye or perch fishing. I pay close attention to the weather forecasts, but it's not uncommon to get caught out there in 4-5' waves. I would never take my son out there, but I also don't want to leave him without a father either. I also do a fair amount of trolling on Lake Cumberland in the spring, but I'm pretty sure the Alaskan will handle that with ease. I've just never heard of the Alaskan, but I do like the Lunds, and I don't want to buy a boat I'll be sorry about later. I really appreciate the advice. - Gary

A) Under those circumstances I think you'll like this boat. The new ones have a livewell and are rated for a 90 Horsepower engine. I like that a lot better than the 75 HP you mentioned, but the one you're looking at is still a solidly built boat and it will handle waves if you ask it to. I fish Leech Lake, Winnie, Red Lake and Rainy Lake. All of these are large lakes that can easily produce 4 foot waves. I've never had to worry about getting back to shore yet and I would compare this to any fishing boat on the market as far as dry ride is concerned. It does not have high sides like a Tyee or Fisherman, it's depth is more comparable to a Pro V, Mr. Pike etc.......
If you're after a basic, no frills working boat, you'll be happy with it. - Good Luck! Jeff

Lund's Alaskan Boat Line, 20 Footer vs. 18 Footer? 4-25-05

Q) Hello there Jeff. I came across your site after searching for info on the 20 Lund Alaskan. Great site by the way. I currently own an 18 Alaskan SS w/3 cylinder Evinrude 60 hp 2-stroke. Had it since new in 99. Absolutely love it. Fish mostly inland in Maine. The question I have is this . I'm seriously considering upgrading to the 20 Alaskan. What hp would you recommend for this boat to get up and go with 3-4 people in it. (My 18 Alaskan flies out of the hole with 3 or 4 people) Also , I would like to continue trolling (trout and salmon) without a kicker motor. I'd love a 4 stroke or new E-tech but my budget probably won't allow it. My brother is a marine mechanic and has a line on many reasonably priced used 2 strokes. The 20 Alaskan would be brand new. Thank you Jeff. I appreciate you taking the time to answer this email. - Jason O'Connor

A) Jason, Thanks for the comments and kind words about the site. If you're happy with the 18 footer, you'll love the 20. Better stability for casting and plenty of extra room to move around. Only a few years ago, this boat (tiller model) was rated for an 80 Horsepower maximum and I started with one of the first few 90 HP rated boats. I have had the 90 Johnson four stroke on my first Alaskan and the 90 Evinrude E-Tech on the second. Neither of These engines ever had to be been pushed hard, even with the heaviest loads.   This year I'm going with the E-Tech again. It has all the power anyone could ask for. I have a friend who operates his 20 footer with a 70 Horsepower and he generally has no problem with his rig either. If you rig it up with the 70, you'll save some money and it will do a nice job for you on this boat. Even giving all consideration to the benefits of a four stroke, I still prefer the E-Tech for slow trolling speed and it's nice to have the extra push when I put the boat on the trailer. I think it saves my prop from a lot of damage at the shallower landings. Obviously this extra torque also gives me a fast lift when I need it and helps me keep my crew dry in rough water. If you go with the smaller engine, you might want to try a trick that Charlie Johnson (formerly of OMC, now with Bomardier) passed on to me several years ago. Test your rig using a lower pitch prop that's used for pontoon boat applications. You'll lose a bit on the high end speed, but the responsiveness and quick lift will feel great! This also slows your trolling speed so you can creep along when you want to.
 

Good luck with your new rig, drop me a line and let me know how it works out for you. - Jeff

Q) Hi Jeff,
I am in the process of buying some new G.Loomis rods. I was wondering what rod you would recommend for snap jigging a 1/8 oz. jig and minnow? I am also looking for a rod to cast shad raps and fat raps for Smallies. Have you tried any of the G.Loomis Crankbait rods or do think one of the spinning rods would work better for this?
Thanks for the help - Dale

A) If money is no object, the best rod there is for jigging with light jigs (1/16 - 1/4) and light line is the SR842-2 GLX It's a super light weight rod with fantastic sensitivity and a comfortable handle. It will be your favorite of all rods. The tip is light and has enough give not to spook the Walleyes when they pick up the bait and it's got enough butt section to handle most of the fish we would hook in Minnesota.
Second choice (for me) would be the SR782 IMX this is really a little light in the butt section, but has a great tip for when you have to drag the fish before setting the hook and it also has a great small handle that's easy to hold all day long.
Casting small crankbaits for Smallmouth can be done with any of about 20 Loomis rods. I don't use casting rods very often for these light baits because the distance is better with spinning gear.
I have a nice rod from their Bronzeback Series SMR750S-SP This is one of the few rods that still comes with a Tennessee style handle. It can also be used for several jigging applications. If I was using a crankbait rod for this, the CBR841C would be the one I'd use. These longer rods are nice for casting. Remember to pay close attention to the reel and line you use for this job too. Those lighter crankbaits are a lot easier to cast when you have a smooth free spool and good fresh line. Good Luck - Jeff

Mississippi River Shore Fishing Opportunities 4/1/05

Q) Hey Jeff,  I currenty reside in the Grand Rapids area and I am interested in fishing the Mississippi up here. Do you have any advise for shore fishing in the spring. I am also curious as to what is in the river up here (i.e. catfish, crappies. smallies, etc.?). Any information would be much appreciated. Thanks A lot, Ryan

A) If there are Catfish in this area, they have eluded capture by me. As you move down river toward Little Falls, you will find more Catfish and other fish common to the lower Mississippi. Below the Blandin Dam in Grand Rapids, you'll find Walleyes, Smallmouth, Northern and panfish. Above that dam and heading toward the Pokegama recreation area, you'll find Largemouth, Musky, Bluegills, Crappies and even some decent Perch. After you get above the Pokegama Dam (West of Grand Rapids on US Hwy 2), you can work your way into several other lakes; Jay Gould, Little Jay Gould, Pokegama etc....In this system you can find most every species common to this area. Above the Minnesota Power Plant and further upstream you will find mainly Walleyes, Northern and Perch. There are also some Bass, but these won't be in large numbers as they are in the stretch closer to the power plant.
There are several areas where shore fishing can be good, the "hot pond" by the power plant outlet is popular. So are the fishing docks located at downtown Cohasset and at the Pokegama Recreation Area. Just below the Blandin Dam, there are good stretches of hard bottom where wading is an option and some folks do really well on Walleyes in this stretch of river early in the season. It's hard to get much more specific, but a few days of snooping around and you'll get the feel of several good places to fish. Add a canoe, then you can really cover some ground.
Good Luck - Jeff

Dear Jeff,
I live in California and I rent so I don't own my own boat. I love taking my girlfriend fishing and she has never been. When we go we usually rent a boat and just anchor it and fish with jigs, float bait, or spinning lures. Last time I was camping the guy next to use showed me his 3.4lbs. trout that he caught trolling.
I was wondering if I am renting a boat is there anyway to troll and get down deep enough to catch fish, without using down riggers? If so could you let me know? Also I would need a little help figuring out how fast to go with the motor? They are usually 6-15 horse power motors.
Thanks for you time and help. - Matt

Matt,
There are several ways to get baits deep enough for trolling without downriggers. Remember, there are portable downriggers too. You can use them on a rental and take them home when you're finished.
First things first, you need to have a reasonably good graph that shows where the fish are in the first place. Once you know how deep they are, you can begin solving the problem of how deep to fish and begin experimenting with a variety of baits.

We use lead core line with a ten to 12 foot monofilament leader connected with a swivel. Sometimes we'll use heavy bell sinkers attached to a dropline from the third eye of a three way swivel.
Experimenting with either of these methods should get you down into the 40 feet range plus or minus. It will take a fairly stout rod like a magnum bass rod, Musky bucktail rod etc... to handle the weight. Trolling speed? Somewhere in a range from 1.7 to 3.5 mph. This can vary quite a bit, so keep experimenting. Always remember this one key point. If you don't know for sure that there are fish under the boat, you will become frustrated. This will work for you provided you keep at it until it starts to pay off.

Good Luck, Jeff

Jeff,
I was looking for Lund Alaskan's on the internet and came across your old boat. I run a Barron now, and as soon as it sells, I will be looking at Alaskans for my new charter boat. I want the walk through windshield model, and I was wondering if you have any opinions on them? Can 3 clients and the captain be comfortable, or is that to crowded? How does it ride in 3 footers? Is it a wet ride, or does it throw the spray out pretty descent? Any thing else you have for me would be appreciative.
Thanks again, Captain Jay

Moving from a Barron to an Alaskan is quite a leap. There will be plenty of room for 4 people, but you'll notice a difference in the width. But, people each have a good bit of territory if they don't run around too much. For me space with four people hasn't been a problem.
I run water like Leech Lake, Rainy Lake and Big Winnie. All of these are capable of producing large waves. My Alaskans have been nice and dry on all of them. I used to run Pro V's all of the time and with the Alaskan I believe I am actually dryer than before because the 90 horsepower tiller is a better match for a boat in this weight range. In big waves I have to go a bit slower to get a smooth ride, but the boat is very responsive and easy to plane, making it pretty easy to stay on the top or in between swells. I haven't had any complaints from customers about the ride. In fact most of them have been quite surprised by the ride. It's a very workable rig and it has the potential to do more than most folks realize. I haven't been in the full windshield version, but I see quite a few of these up on Rainy Lake and lake of the Woods. I bet you can find a couple of testimonials up there too.
Good Luck!, Jeff

The lake you choose must be based on additional information. For example; if you never want to wet a line for any other fish except Musky, you would choose a lake based solely on it's reputation as a Musky fishery. If you want multiple opportunities on one lake, this will move you in another direction. Make these decisions first and then begin your search for the right lake.

A: I'm glad to hear that you're looking at the 20 foot Alaskan. I fell in love with mine the first time I had it on the water. For those of us who want a multi purpose boat with lots of room and handles easily with a tiller engine, this is the perfect rig.
If you look close at the photo, I didn't move the original floor base, I just added a new one in the center. This was one of the easiest I've done because there is a lot of extra space between the pilot seat and the 3rd seat, this allows you lots of placement options.
The center floor panel comes out easily with an ordinary Phillips screw driver. Just lift out the panel and mark a safe spot for the new base (stay clear of the fuel lines, gas tank and other wiring under the floor). I used a large hole saw to make a neat cut for the new base. I install the base with stainless steel screws, oversize fender washers and lock nuts.
You wind up with very comfortable seating for 4 people and you are free to move easily between the bow and stern when you need to net fish or do other small jobs in the boat.
Just another side note, the 4 stroke Johnson that I ran last year worked like a charm, but this year I'm going with the Evinrude E-Tech outboard. They have this engine set up to be maintenance free for 3 years and you enjoy the performance benefits of a 2 stroke combined with the reliability of a 4 stroke. Go to the Evinrude site and take a look at that engine before you make your final decision. Good luck with your new rig, I'm sure you will love it.

Q) Jeff - Just a quick question. I am new to the northern pike fishing, but have been lucky and done well. The "Y" bones are still a pain in my neck and I don't quite understand the instructions in your website. You don't cut the whole top off, right? Just a notch with the bones in it? As for your pickled pike recipe, I tried it with eggs before using pike and it was FANTASTIC. I am just now attempting my first pickled pike. Will the bones dissolve in the brine if I left them in? And to make sure, you don't cook the pike, right? In Christ - Jamie

A) Good morning Steve,
If you like, you are welcome to take a test run with me to get a feel for the boat. There are a lot of folks getting by very nicely with the 18 foot Alaskan, but I have to tell you that I really love the 20 footer and you plan to fish some big water. This will be my third 20 foot Alaskan and they have exceeded my expectations.
Currently, I travel to Lake of the Woods about a half dozen trips each summer, in addition to that I spend a couple of weeks on Rainy Lake and I do many, many trips on Leech Lake and Winnibigoshish. The 20 footer handles all of these lakes and providing that you are a reasonably safe operator, you will enjoy this rig. In my opinion the 20 foot model will be very easy to control and it's responsiveness and handling will surprise you. When you look around up there, you'll see quite a few of these on the water.
Now, if big water was my only requirement, I'd be looking at the Fisherman models. Since versatility is my main consideration, the Alaskan shines for me.

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